Lasciato il Togo, con Yaya entriamo in Ghana da nord. Il posto di frontiera è nel mezzo della foresta, una piccola capanna dove i poliziotti effettuano i loro controlli. Superata l’ispezione, ci ritroviamo in territorio Konkomba e Dagomba. Decidiamo di visitare il primo villaggio che incontriamo lungo la strada. Scendiamo dalla jeep e stavolta non aspetto Yaya per parlare. Dal momento che in Ghana si parla inglese, ho la presunzione di poter comunicare da solo. Il giovane che incrocio sul bordo della strada mi sorride; ricambio il sorriso, e gli dico che sono felice di visitare il suo splendido Paese. Non mi risponde, ma mi prende per mano e mi porta in una grande capanna, Yaya mi segue. In questa capanna c’è una specie di trono, una sedia in plastica, un paio di panche di legno, dei tappeti e… Un cavallo! Mi indica di accomodarmi sulla sedia di plastica e scompare. Yaya mi spiega che non tutti parlano inglese, specialmente nei villaggi isolati, e che quindi avremmo comunicato tramite lui. Nel frattempo il giovane arriva, con il capovillaggio e altre personalità locali. Ci si siede in base alla gerarchia: il capo sul trono, Yaya e i notabili sulle panche di legno, gli altri a terra sui tappeti… E il cavallo sempre con noi. Si conversa amabilmente per una ventina di minuti, mi offrono da bere, Yaya racconta di me e del mio viaggio e poi, lentamente, ci congediamo. Riprendiamo il cammino e ci dirigiamo a visitare il villaggio delle streghe. Si tratta di un villaggio che accoglie persone, uomini e donne, accusati di aver causato, tramite malocchi e sortilegi, fatti gravi, quali la morte di un giovane, una malattia improvvisa, un raccolto mal riuscito… Con queste accuse, la vita nei loro villaggi diventa impossibile, e l’unico modo per sopravvivere è andare via. Per fortuna trovano ospitalità in luoghi come questo. L’accoglienza è gentile, ma non cordiale come sempre. Mi sorridono, ma con cautela. Per la prima e unica volta in tutto il viaggio, non mi invitano a entrare nelle loro capanne, ma restiamo a chiacchierare all’ombra degli alberi. Capisco presto il motivo di tanta cautela: temono che l’arrivo dell’uomo bianco, e quindi l’arrivo dei turisti, renda questo villaggio popolare e questo mini non tanto la loro tranquillità, ma la loro sicurezza, perché gli abitanti dei villaggi di origine saprebbero dove trovarli. Vado via con un sentimento di tristezza, che mi porta a pensare alle tante stupide battute che si fanno ogni giorno su qualcuno che porta male e a quali conseguenze queste battute possano avere, se prese sul serio. Continuiamo il nostro viaggio fino a Tamale, dove trascorro la notte.
La mattina dopo ci mettiamo in cammino sul presto, e cominciamo con la visita di alcuni villaggi Dagomba, che si caratterizzano per le case rotonde, con tetti in paglia. Tutti sono gentili, ma mi accorgo che un ragazzo si lamenta di qualcosa con Yaya. Mi faccio spiegare di che si tratta: il ragazzo dice che tutti vengono al villaggio a fotografare, ma lui non vede mai queste fotografie. Gli dico che ha ragione, e prometto di spedirgli le fotografie che farò. E’ contento, mi dà l’indirizzo della missione vicina per riceverle. Gli faccio una foto in primo piano, tutta per lui, così si ricorderà di me quando, fra settimane o mesi, riceverà la mia lettera. Proseguiamo il cammino, l’obiettivo di oggi è la foresta sacra. Lungo la strada troviamo un villaggio Peul, ci fermiamo. L’accoglienza è, come sempre, affettuosissima. C’è solo un uomo nel villaggio, gli altri sono a lavoro, ma è pieno di donne e bambini, tutti indossano vestiti colorati. Ci mettiamo a chiacchierare, facciamo fotografie tutti insieme, poi ci congediamo, ma vediamo che un uomo ci insegue. E’ il capovillaggio, che ha saputo di noi ed è venuto a salutarci. Chiede di fare delle foto anche con lui, ne facciamo una mano nella mano, segno di vera amicizia. Ci fermiamo a mangiare in un mercato lungo la strada, compro dell’igname arrostito. Me lo avvolgono in un giornale italiano, nella pagina degli annunci immobiliari di Cremona.
Nel pomeriggio arriviamo alla foresta sacra di Fiema Boabeng, dove vivono le scimmie Monas, piccole, di un colore verde-marrone, che non temono l’uomo ed entrano nelle case per rubare il cibo. Ci sono anche le scimmie Colobus, dal manto di lunghi peli neri sul corpo, a eccezione della coda e del volto cerchiato di bianco. Queste scimmie, che in questa foresta sono protette, sono in via di estinzione perché ricercate per la pelliccia e per la carne. Vivono sulla cima degli alberi della foresta, completamente indifferenti all’uomo. Mi colpisce il cimitero delle scimmie. Siccome qui sono protette, ogni scimmia ha un nome e, quando muore, una tomba. Trascorro la notte a Techiman, e chiedo a Yaya di mangiare africano: vorrei assaggiare il famoso fufù, piatto tipico ghanese. Yaya è terrorizzato che mi venga mal di pancia, e chiede alla direzione dell’hotel di prepararlo con l’acqua minerale. Lo assaggio, è una delizia, e, da bravo africano, anche se solo di adozione, lo mangio con le mani. Dopo cena, ci rechiamo in un bar appena fuori dall’hotel, a guardare le partite della coppa d’Africa. Sono l’unico bianco nel bar, e in realtà sono l’unico bianco da una settimana, tanto che mi sono dimenticato di esserlo, ma ci pensano le facce stupite dei bambini a ricordarmelo.
Il giorno dopo, venerdì, ci rechiamo a Kumasi, uno dei momenti top di questo viaggio. Antica capitale del regno ashanti, ricca di storia e di cultura, Kumasi fa sembrare la mia Napoli una città disciplinata e ordinata. Restiamo bloccati due ore nel traffico prima di arrivare, le automobili spuntano da tutte le direzioni e vanno in tutte le direzioni, alle rotonde il caos è totale, perfino Yaya si stressa. Riusciamo ad arrivare in centro, e anche a parcheggiare. Mi colpisce il numero di pipistrelli che volano nel cielo. Facciamo una visita fuori programma allo zoo locale, interessante per la presenza degli scimpanzé. Per il resto, animali tristi e abbandonati. Andiamo poi a visitare il mercato all’aperto, uno dei più grandi dell’Africa occidentale. E’ immenso, una città nella città. Sebbene sia con Yaya, e sebbene sia l’unico bianco, quindi facilmente riconoscibile, prendo dei punti di riferimento, nel caso mi smarrisca in questo labirinto. Al mercato si vende di tutto, con il caos e l’allegria tipica dei mercati africani. Essendo l’unico bianco, diversi venditori, e soprattutto venditrici, mi chiedono di avvicinarmi e fare una foto con loro. Insomma, sto avendo il mio quarto d’ora di celebrità. Dopo il mercato, visita ai musei e al palazzo reale, per imparare un po’ di storia di questa magnifica regione.
Il sabato comincia con una visita, di primo mattino, nel villaggio di Adwumase, dove assisto a varie attività, quali la produzione del vino di palma, del cacao, e la tessitura del kente, prestigioso tessuto locale. Ci rechiamo poi in città, dove incontro la guida locale: è la prima persona, in tutto il viaggio, che mi chiede apertamente come mai viaggi da solo (una domanda che mi verrà fatta tante altre volte in futuro). Il piatto forte della giornata è l’invito a un funerale tipico ashanti, che si terrà nel pomeriggio. Dico che spero non sia morto nessuno, al che mi viene spiegato che le persone sono già morte e si tratta di una cerimonia di commemorazione, che la famiglia organizza quando ha i soldi per farlo. Il sabato è il giorno dedicato ai funerali ashanti, ce ne sono in tutta la città. Mi dice di avermi invitato a un funerale assieme a un gruppo di tedeschi. Per scherzare rispondo che non sono più abituato ai bianchi; mi prende sul serio e mi dice che mi cambierà funerale. Mentre si organizza, abbiamo tempo per andare a mangiare. Mi reco con Yaya in un ristorante all’aperto e stavolta assaggio il banku, un fufù fatto con farina di mais. Da bravo africano mangio con le mani, provocando l’approvazione dei ghanesi, camerieri e clienti, e il disgusto dei turisti bianchi. Sazio, sono finalmente pronto per recarmi al funerale, ma mi sento triste. Mi sono vestito di grigio, per essere in tema. Mi dicono di non essere triste, e che sono libero di scattare tutte le foto che voglio. Questa cosa mi sembra un po’ assurda. Chiedo se ci siano delle regole di comportamento, mi rispondono di salutare la famiglia (mi sembra il minimo); riconoscerò la famiglia perché tutti indosseranno la tradizionale tunica rossa, mentre gli altri invitati vestiranno prevalentemente di nero. La defunta è una signora sessantatreenne (morta alla stessa età di mia madre), madre di cinque figli, che ha vissuto per diversi anni in Canada. Mi reco sul luogo dell’evento: il funerale occupa un’intera strada, opportunamente sbarrata; all’inizio della strada c’è un altarino con i fiori e una grossa foto della defunta, alla fine della strada gli strumenti musicali che una banda utilizzerà per il concerto. Lungo ciascuno dei marciapiedi, tre file di sedie, per fortuna tenute in ombra da alcuni teloni che ci proteggeranno dal sole cocente. La prima fila di ciascun marciapiede è occupata da persone vestite di rosso, i familiari. Mi rendo conto solo allora che sono circa un centinaio, come le nostre famiglie numerose del sud Italia. Mi metto ordinatamente in fila per stringere la mano, e mi accorgo che quasi tutti stringono la mano distrattamente, ma… La mia è l’unica mano bianca, si nota, quindi tutti alzano lo sguardo su di me e cominciano a parlarmi. “Benvenuto al funerale”, “Come stai?”, “Grazie di essere venuto”, “Benvenuto in Ghana”, “Benvenuto a Kumasi” sono alcune delle cose che mi dicono. Terminati i saluti, decidono di farmi sedere in prima fila assieme ai familiari, e così la tortura dei saluti continua. Dopo un’ora, approfittando di un attimo di quiete, mi sposto in seconda fila, da dove posso osservare con più calma. La musica continua, ogni tanto si interrompe per fare degli annunci, il clima effettivamente è festoso.
La domenica lasciamo Kumasi per recarci ad Axim, attraversando la foresta tropicale. Ci fermiamo nei pressi del fiume Pra a guardare il lavoro dei cercatori d’oro, che setacciano la sabbia alla ricerca di pagliuzze. Arriviamo ad Axim, pernotto in un hotel sulla spiaggia, bellissimo l’hotel e sconfinata la spiaggia. Mi pento di non aver programmato più giorni ad Axim, mi sembra di essere in un paradiso deserto. La mattina dopo mi concedo ancora due ore in spiaggia, tutta per me, prima di andare a visitare il castello portoghese di Axim: un bambino mi fa da guida. Ci trasferiamo poi al castello di Elmina, fatto costruire nel 1482 da Cristoforo Colombo e Bartolomeo Diaz, sotto l’autorità portoghese, con lo scopo di sfruttare l’oro che si trovava in zona. Il castello sarebbe diventato, come quello di Axim, una prigione per gli schiavi, in attesa di partire per le Americhe. Mi sento quasi male durante quella visita, avverto tutto il peso e l’angoscia della storia. Fuori dal castello, incontro due ragazzi diciassettenni, con cui sono tuttora in contatto: Matthiew, che gioca a calcio come portiere, sogna la nazionale, e mi vende una grossa conchiglia (che posseggo tuttora) su cui scrive un messaggio di amicizia, e Isaac, con in braccio il fratellino piccolo, che mi vende un braccialetto del Ghana. Yaya propone, come fuori programma, di visitare il castello di Cape Coast, per completare i castelli degli schiavi. Dopo la visita, ci rechiamo in hotel per l’ultima cena in questo meraviglioso Paese.
Il giorno dopo partiamo per Accra, per una visita della capitale prima di andare, di sera, in aeroporto, da dove il mio aereo decollerà per un volo notturno. Una città dinamica, una metropoli, con alternanza di quartieri antichi e moderni, di quartieri ricchi e poveri. La vista più interessante è stata quella alla fabbrica di sarcofagi. Non credo ci sia bisogno di specificare che ero l’unico visitatore, eppure ho fatto un’esperienza interessante e divertente, perché questa fabbrica sviluppava bare e urne dalle forme più impensate, che venivano vendute in tutto il mondo: ho visto urne a forma di ananas, di bottiglia di coca cola, per coloro che, a fine vita, desideravano essere cremati; bare a forma di aeroplano, di barca, per chi invece preferiva l’inumazione. Insomma, la fantasia al potere!
Si è fatta sera, è arrivato il momento di salutare Yaya e di andare in aeroporto; si torna in Europa, con il cuore ricco di una consapevolezza nuova, traboccante di nostalgia. E’ proprio vero ciò che Yaya mi dice quando ci congediamo: “Tu lasci l’Africa, ma l’Africa non lascia te”.
Fantastico viaggio: un villaggio di gente con la patente di iettatori? E bravo che hai spedito le foto. E si’ ai funerali sereni: e’ un saluto, un’ultima festa a chi ha condiviso con noi un po’ di strada.
Grazie del il racconto
mi viene una voglia di partire. L Africa mi attira tantissimo ma è un continente talmente vasto che chissà quanto tempo ci vorrà!
un abbraccio
Diffondiamo
Racconto come sempre bellissimo
Con un finale tutto da condividere!!
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[…] articoli hanno superato il migliaio di visualizzazioni e uno, quello del racconto di viaggio in Ghana, che ha avuto il privilegio di essere rilanciato da Yahoo Africa, vola verso quota […]
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